North Eolus and Windom Peak 9/16-9/18/2011

Total Mileage: about 27 miles
Total Elevation Gain: ~11,200 feet
Starting Point: Needleton
Total Time: 21.5 hours of hiking over 3 days
Party: Myself, Eric B., Brandon J., Todd H., Ron R., Tim H., Dan B., and 4 other from Utah I didn't know very well and didn't stay there very long either.

The beautiful Chicago Basin! Windom peak is left of center.

This is a hiking adventure that could easily be (and probably is) the highlight of anyone's life, let alone the summer. The Chicago Basin is located in the heart of the San Juan mountain range in southern Colorado. There are four 14ers that are within hiking distance from this basin. Mount Eolus, North Eolus, Windom Peak, and Sunlight Peak. The goal, of course was all four. Weather would change our plans.

We would start from the town of Durango. To arrive at the Needlton Trailhead one must catch a train that goes between Durango and Silverton. Needleton is about 30 miles north of Durango and there is really no other way of arriving there. The train departed at 9am on Friday morning and dropped us off at the trailhead around 11:30am.

Loading our packs in the cargo car of the train before departing.

Overlooking the Las Animas River en route to Needleton.

The Needleton drop-off. We would return here in 3 days.

This suspension bridge marks the beginning of the trail to the Chicago basin and crosses the Las Animas  River.

With 11 people in our party we made our initial ascent into the Chicago basin. I started it off with a little hiccup. About one quarter mile into the hike I realized I had left my trekking poles at the trailhead. I turned around and made it about half way back and saw a woman who had picked them up for me. Not a huge speed bump but it did put me at the back of the group.

From Needleton it's six miles to the Chicago Basin area. En route we would gain about 2800 feet of elevation. With my pack weighing about 45 lbs I felt like this might be the crux of the entire route.

We experienced a bit of moisture on our way up to Chicago Basin.

It took about four hours to make my way to where we would set up camp. Good company the entire way made it easier to forget that I had 45 lbs strapped to my back. We found a great group campsite and quickly got tents set up for the night.

Camping at 11,100 feet in the Chicago basin.

Our goal for the morning was going to be Windom peak. We knew the weather wasn't going to be the greatest so we'd try for the easiest of the four peaks first. I think we decided on a 5 o'clock start time. I could tell that not everyone was crazy about the early start time but it would give us the best shot at summit success.

I probably haven't slept so bad in my entire life than that night (and the subsequent night as well). The ground was cold and I didn't bring a pad to lay down underneath me. I couldn't really tell if I was ever sleeping or not. Some kind of rest must have happened or I think I would have been dead tired the next day.

In the dark the next morning all 11 of us set out for Windom Peak. The fog was hovering at about 12000 feet. So we started with good visibility that dwindled as we climbed higher.

Taken on the way down this shot shows the fog just hovering. Our camp is in the lower right corner here. 

 We all arrived at Twin Lakes which is about 1400 vertical feet above the Chicago Basin and our campsite. At this particular time it was also located in the heart of this increasing fog. We convened and discussed our next strategy. We all agreed to proceed to Windom under little visibility. We left in small groups at slightly different times.

Gathering at Twin Lakes to discuss our next move.

Eric B. contemplating the Polar Bear Challenge!

First group heads into the void. Windom is over there somewhere.

By way of explanation, the route to Windom is similar to the route of Sunlight Peak as well. Sunlight is another 14er located about 1/2 mile north of Windom. A little ways above Twin lakes I started to question whether or not we were on the right track towards Windom. I had a hunch that we had left the route to Windom and were heading towards Sunlight Peak instead. It would have only required a small course correction at the time I realized this. Unfortunately, I was in the rear of the group at this time. The wind was picking up and communication to the other groups ahead of us was impossible. Not too much further we all stopped and I made by recommendation that we reconsider our route. Some there pulled out maps and began to evaluate our current position. Through the next 3 minutes of conversation I was convinced that I was wrong and that we were heading towards our intended destination. We pressed on. At about 13,400 feet I had changed my mind yet again with more conviction that we had, indeed, not followed the right path. I believed that we were actually cliimbing Sunlight and not Windom. The tops of the peaks could not be seen due to fog and there was little means to use landmarks to navigate. Again, I was lagging behind and could not communicate this idea to anyone.

Soon after I was startled by loud thunder that seemed to have come out of nowhere. This stopped the party and allowed me to catch up. I didn't see lightning but others did and described the lightning as having knocked a large boulder loose not far from where we were standing. They were discussing calling it a day. I said we were on the wrong peak anyways so we might as well. A few disagreed with me, but after pulling out my GPS there was no question we had gone wrong. (Yes, I had a GPS and yes, I should have used it to begin with.)

So back to camp we went. Arriving at camp around 10 am. It was a fun four hour excursion that didn't net us a summit. We got as high as about 13,500 before turning around. The four-man Utah group in our party had had enough apparently. They decided that they would be catching that day's train back to Durango and heading back to Utah that night. It's hard to not feel a little demoralized with the morning's events and part of the group calling it quits. I'd be lying if I said I wasn't a little jealous that they'd be sleeping in warm beds that night and I would be tossing and turning. They broke camp and left wishing us luck for an attempt the next day.

As it turned out the next attempt up would be a little sooner than that. As the day went on, the weather turned worse. At around 2 pm we got a snow shower at camp that lasted a little more than an hour and left a 2-3 inch blanket of snow all around us. Then, at around 3:30pm the clouds parted and the sun finally broke through unimpeded. The storm had broke and we were left with a bluebird sky! So what now?

I was standing with the rest of the group and said, "If anyone else wants to head up right now with me, I'm willing to give it a go." Brandon almost immediately volunteered as if he was dying of boredom. We agreed to get going and Eric joined us as well. I thought that the timing was such that we would arrive back at camp around dark, maybe a little after. We decided that we would leave Windom for the next day and attempt Mount Eolus that evening. It's no further than Windom would have been. Instead of going right at Twin Lakes you just go left basically. Around 4 pm we were off.

About one hour later we arrived at Twin Lakes for the second time that day. But instead of seeing this:

Twin Lakes at 7 am.

We saw this:

A much different view at 5pm.

So we took a short break and continued climbing towards Eolus. There is a feature commonly referred to as "The Catwalk" on Mount Eolus. It is a narrow walkway with steep exposure on either side that one must walk across to summit the mountain. We were a little concerned with the recent snowfall what the conditions there would provide. We had North Eolus as a back-up plan if the Catwalk proved too dangerous.

Heading up Eolus in 12-18 inches of snow we weren't planning on. 

Windom behind us dead center.

We were heading towards the saddle that connects Eolus to North Eolus. from there we would make a determination to attempt the Catwalk or not. The next picture show our route (roughly) from Twin Lakes to the saddle.

Taken from near the top of Windom the next day. 

We arrived on the saddle and decide to go towards Eolus and the Catwalk until we felt uncomfortable. It didn't take long for that to happen.

Eric is waiting for Brandon and me to catch up. The Catwalk is below where Eric is sitting. 

We fell victim to good judgement and retreated back towards North Eolus. 

Eolus wasn't in the cards that evening. When the above pictures were shot we were about 30 minutes from the sun setting. We wanted to summit something at the very least. From the saddle between the two peaks it only took about 15 minutes for us to be on top of North Eolus.

North Eolus 14,039 feet!

Spectacular views from North Eolus right as the sun had set.

Wilson group of 14ers far in the distance.

Heading back down to camp.

From the top of North Eolus we could see easily how far off we were that morning.

We had turned around at point "B" many of us thinking we were at point "A". 

This goes to show how easy it can be to lose your ability to navigate under less than ideal conditions.

We made short work of the way down. It was officially dark when we arrived at Twin lakes. We donned headlamps and continued down the trail to camp. From that distance we could see the campfire and headlamps those of our party that chose to stay.

It was around 9:30 pm when we rolled into camp. I got warm around the fire and tried to dry out some gear knowing we'd be marching up that trail again in about 7 hours.

The next night was worse than the first one for me. I left my tent around 4 am and got the fire going. Everyone else was asleep. I figured if I can't sleep, why be cold and awake when I can be warm and awake. Plus everyone else would appreciate a rip-roaring fire when they get up. At around 5:15 am I was the camp's wake-up call. We ate some breakfast, refilled water, and got going. We had clear star-filled skies and an early start on this our second attempt of Windom Peak.

No wrong turns this time. I arrived at Twin Lakes much behind the rest of the group. I had left about 8 minutes after the last person from camp because I had misplaced my GPS device. Once I found it, I made it about half way to Twin lakes before nature called quite abruptly. Having taken care of business I found, ten minutes later, nature wasn't done. Once nature and I had settled our differences I hightailed it to Twin lakes. I got there and many were already rested and ready to continue onward. They did, and I waited a bit to rest up.

Heading up Windom just above Twin lakes.

It's nice being able to see where you're going. It was slow going for sure but I held a steady pace and before long we were all standing on the summit of Windom Peak.

We were glad we waited out the poor weather!

Yours truly at 14,089 feet! 28th 14er under my belt!

Sitting on top of the Chicago basin!

Arrow peak and Vestal peak are the prominent mountains to the left.  They aren't 14ers but they are very impressive mountains

From the top of the Windom Peak our next goal was to catch the train back to Durango. Of course, this required us to break camp first. The way down offered some fun glissading for many. I prefer plunge-stepping myself and Todd caught some sweet video of me plunging about 800 feet down off Windom. Still waiting on that though. You'll just have to trust that it was awesome.

I had run out of water so I refilled at Twin Lakes. We broke camp quickly and from there it was a 6 mile hike back to the suspension bridge where the train would be picking us up. We had a little less than 3 hours to get there. If you miss the train there is no other way out. Well, I suppose there's always another way out. Just not a way that doesn't require 30 miles of hiking as the minimum energy expenditure to get out. A few of us were pretty fatigued at this point but felt confident we would all make it in time.

Hiking out of the Chicago Basin

We all made it to the train. The last of us made it with only about 10-12 minutes to spare. Cutting it pretty close I'd say. We boarded the train and 3 hours later we were eating Bacon Slamburgers at Durango's local Denny's!! Chicago Basin is a fantastic area that I will be looking forward to visiting again!

Pyramid Peak, South Maroon Peak, and North Maroon Peak 8/19/2011 through 8/21/2011

Total Mileage: ~16 miles
Total Elevation gain: ~9000 feet
Starting Point: Maroon Lake Trailhead
Total Time: about 21 hours of hiking over 2.5 days
Party: Myself, and Eric W.

Maroon Bells in Winter. (Photo Credit: Google Images)

I'll be using a lot of photos that aren't mine for this report. I lost my phone over the edge of some steep cliffs while traversing from South Maroon Peak to North Maroon Peak. My phone had all my pictures because I forgot my camera for this trip. Any pictures that I have of myself came from Eric's phone.

Eric and I had planned this trip about a month prior to going. When the time came to start packing for it I was so excited I could hardly contain myself. The Maroon Bells are probably the most photographed mountains in all of Colorado. They are located about 10 miles from Aspen, CO and shoot out of the ground in stark contrast to their surroundings. The scenery here would rival any other mountainous region in the world. Pyramid Peak is close by as well and our goal would be to climb Pyramid on Saturday and save then traverse from South to North Maroon Peak and hike out on Sunday.

Eric and I were traveling from opposite directions. We had decided to meet on the CO-82 about 13 miles west of the 24 junction. The La Plata Trailhead is right off the road and provides a place for one of us to leave our vehicle. I got there first and waited for Eric for a little over an hour. Eric was having babysitter issues and got a late start due to her just not showing up or calling at all. He worked out his business and got on the road. It was close to dark when he arrived and we decided I would leave my car at the trailhead there and we'd carpool the rest of the way. I did not realize that I had left my camera in my car until setting up camp that night.

We arrived in Aspen, CO around 9 pm. We stopped at a Domino's Pizza and ate some food before setting off for the Maroon lake Trailhead. We arrived at the Trailhead and started hiking in around 10 pm. Much later than we had thought it would have been. Camp was going to be located 2 miles in and only about 500 feet of elevation gain to get thereat a place called Crater Lake. We arrived at camp around 11pm and were sleeping by midnight. We didn't set any alarm for the morning figuring the weather would be nice and a late start would be okay for Pyramid.

Right before leaving for this trip we had heard of a bear attack that had seriously injured a camper very close to Crater Lake. Within .5 miles in fact. On top of that, we had seen a bear dive off the road when we rolled into Aspen. On top of that, my previous 14er hike put me within 30 feet of a bear. Needless to say, we were a little concerned about the presence of bears in the area.

So the first night camping we were awoken to a sound that had our heads perked up like little prairie dogs in the middle of the night. I fumbled around for my headlamp and turned it on and tried to shine it under a little gap in the rainfly. I couldn't see anything except for Eric clutching the handle of a Bowie knive like he was never going to see it again. With the lamp on and us rustling around a bit, whatever was out there, left. All I know was that the sounds I was hearing sounded large. We were able to calm ourselves and get back to sleep within a few minutes.

We woke up around 7am and ate some breakfast before setting off for Pyramid Peak. From our camp it would only be about a five mile round trip. The elevation gain was brutal and slowed us down to a pace of about 1 mile/hour. Nothing to be ashamed about on this mountain though. Pyramid is on many people's short list for difficult 14ers. It is steep, exposed, and there are areas of loose rock. Route finding becomes necessary as the trail suddenly disappears on you. We were able to grab one picture of Pyramid Peak on our way out on Sunday.

Pyramid is in the center

Climbing the visible headwall in the picture above lands you in a big amphitheater. Surrounded nearly 360 degrees by steep cliffs this was an impressive sight. I've never been more mad that I forgot my camera. I will still include some pictures from 14ers.com that show some of the route. More physically demanding than climbing into the amphitheater, was climbing out of it. About 1000 feet of elevation gain over less than a half mile had us standing on the rim of the amphitheater with about another 1000 feet to go until we'd be on the summit.

Climbing out of the amphitheater. (Photo Credit: 14ers.com)

From the top of the amphitheater viewing the remaining route.

From the point where the above picture was taken we were greeted by 4 or 5 VERY friendly mountain goats. We stopped there to refuel and the goats would have sat in our laps if we would have let them. We started off to finish the rest of the mountain and left the goats behind us. Little did we know that we would spend much of our time above 13000 feet accompanied by these guys.

Beautiful views from the summit of what we would be doing the next day. 

We spent a about 30 minutes on top before heading back down. There was only one other group climbing Pyramid that day. They were behind us but our routes were such that we never came close enough to them to talk to them. we went down different than they went up. It took us nearly four hours to descend to camp. This was first time that I had experienced a decent that took as long as the ascent. That speaks to the steepness of the route and the care needed to descend safely.

We spent most of the remainder of the day lounging around Crater Lake. We encountered a Forest Service employee who informed us that they had shot and killed a bear in the area. They believed it to be the bear responsible for the attack 2 days earlier. This made us sleep more soundly that evening. We still hoisted our food up a tree and I still slept close to my bear mace. We entertained the idea of swimming in Crater Lake. we had just returned from climbing Pyramid Peak and we were hot and sweaty. The temperature of this lake was around 40 F. We were down to our shorts and entered the water. We made to about mid-calf and called it good. It was nice to just relax with good company and good conversation.

We decided on an early start for the events of the next day. The Bells Traverse is nothing short of daunting. By far the most aggressive climb on my resume at this point. The goal: climb South Maroon in 5 hours, traverse to North Maroon in 2 hours, and down climb back to camp in about 5 hours.

We woke up around 4 am and got on our way by 5 am. From our camp, this route is one big loop. we would not be backtracking our steps at all today. We really wanted to take it one step at a time today with our first goal being the summit of South Maroon Peak. We were able to survey most of the route from the top of Pyramid Peak the day before.

Most of the route up South Maroon Peak.

 From the point where the blue line disappears above the route is similar to Pyramid Peak. The trail comes and goes and can be misleading at time. You have to use your best judgement at times to find the best route.

Remaining Route from the saddle to South Maroon Peak.

We made great time to the top. We were on the summit just over 4 hours after starting. We assessed our physical and mental conditions and decided we would attempt the traverse to North Maroon.

Much of the traverse can be seen in this photo. Only .5 miles from peak to peak. 

The downclimb to the connecting saddle took us 45 minutes to reach. we were making good time and saw no reason to rush this. The climb from there to the top of North Maroon Peak took us another 2 hours and 45 minutes. This traverse is often described as having three major difficult pitches. Having climbed it I would say only one (the third one) would I choose to not do again. The exposure here is like nothing I have ever seen. Suffice it to say, there is no room for error. The footholds and handholds are solid and there was no necessity for rope. It was during this part of the climb that my phone (containing all the pictures of this trip up until that point) slid out of a pocket that I had left unzipped and feel about 1500 feet below. I wanted to cry. However, the manliness of what I was involved in prevented any such response. It was time to upgrade to the iPhone 4 anyways. The wife was super happy about that.

The 3 difficulties shown here. The rest is really just ridge walking.

The last bit of the traverse went by without a hitch. One last chute to shimmy up and then a short walk to the top.

This is actually me on the last chute to the upper ridge. One of the more tame areas. 

Upon topping out on the ridge we could see the summit 100 yards away. From where we were we could see that we would be sharing the summit.

View from the top of the last chute with a goat sitting on the summit block.

Closer look

He really didn't want to move until we tried to cut off his horns. Then he left.

I immediately felt a sense of accomplishment when we arrived at the summit of North Maroon Peak. It was good to be done with the climbing part. This goat would actually accompany us for about 2000 vertical feet of downclimbing. He clearly felt bad for us and felt the need to be our guide.

Keeping an eye on us while keeping his distance. Crater Lake and Maroon Lake in the distance .

Summit shots (poor quality):

Me on North Maroon with South Maroon behind me. 14,014 feet!

Me with Pyramid Peak on the left.

Pyramid on the right.

Eric with South Maroon behind him.

We have only to descend North Maroon and head back to camp at this point. Not a small task as it turns out.

The upper portion of the descent.

When crossing the rock glacier shown above, I took nasty spill that required some first aid for a gash on my left leg. Not a big deal but it hurt like crazy when it happened. It bled for a bit too but not too bad for what we had just got done doing.

We made it back to camp about 11 hours after leaving. We were happy with the results and lounged for bit to eat and drink before taking down camp and heading out. I was not looking forward to a 45 pound pack for 2 more miles to reach the car. We filled our water at the lake and broke camp and headed back towards the parking lot. It was a long two miles. Maroon Lake always has people there so we got a picture together.

Maroon Lake right before leaving.

It was dark when we arrived so we didn't see the sign.

One of my most flattering pictures I'd say. It's the leggings I think.

The ride home went fine. We stopped at a burger joint in Aspen and I was dropped off at my car at the La Plata trailhead. My wife was pleased to hear from me as she had not heard anything for 2 days. I usually call but there wasn't any service until Aspen. And, of course, I didn't have a phone so she was double worried when the phone call she received was from Eric's phone.

I made it home just fine and we all lived happily ever after.

Notes to self:
- don't attack Eric at night because he sleeps with a knive.
- will have to hike South Maroon and Pyramid again to get summit pics.
- I love my new Jetboil